Northeastern Pork Rib Soup with Toasted Rice (Tom Sap Gradook Moo)

June 8, 2024

Northeastern Pork Rib Soup with Toasted Rice (Tom Sap Gradook Moo) © kvalifood.com

An Isan (northeastern Thai) soup built on pork ribs braised until tender, with the same herb trinity as tom yum - lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves - but with the addition of charred shallots, toasted dried chilies, and toasted rice powder. Unlike the Central Thai tom yum, there is no added sweetness here. The salt and acid are balanced by the nuttiness of the toasted rice and the natural sweetness from the pork stock.

Ingredients

Serves 4

2-3 heads shallots
5-10 small dried chilies
450 g pork sparerib tips, cut into 4 cm pieces (see notes)
1 l water
1 tsp salt
2 cilantro roots, crushed (or 6 cilantro stems)
5-6 kaffir lime leaves, torn into chunks
2 stalks lemongrass, bottom half only, smashed and cut into 5 cm pieces
8 slices galangal, sliced into thin rounds
1 1/2-2 Tbsp fish sauce
125 g oyster mushrooms (or straw mushrooms), bite-sized pieces
3 Tbsp lime juice
4 leaves sawtooth coriander, chopped (or 1/3 cup cilantro, chopped)
1-2 Tbsp toasted rice powder

Directions

Cut the shallots in half lengthwise (quarters if large). Grill them over medium heat or broil in the oven, cut side up, until charred around the edges.

Toast the dried chilies over low heat on a grill or under a low broiler, about 8 inches from the element. They need less than a minute and burn quickly, so watch them closely. They are done when slightly darkened with a smoky aroma.

Rinse the pork in cold water and place in a pot. Cover with the cold water, add the salt, and bring to a simmer. After 15 minutes, skim off the scum that has risen to the surface.

Add the cilantro roots, charred shallots, and toasted dried chilies. Simmer gently for another 30 minutes or until the pork is fork-tender.

Once the pork is tender, remove the cilantro roots. Add the kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, galangal, and 1 1/2 Tbsp of the fish sauce. Simmer for 3-5 minutes to let the aromatics infuse. The lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves are traditionally left in the soup but are not meant to be eaten - remove them now or let guests know.

Add the mushrooms and cook for another 1-2 minutes until tender. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice and sawtooth coriander (or cilantro). Taste and adjust seasoning with more fish sauce and/or lime juice as needed.

Stir in the toasted rice powder just before serving. Serve on its own, over rice, or with rice on the side.

Notes

Sparerib tips are what butchers trim off a full rack to make St. Louis-style ribs. At Chinese butchers, you can often find them already cut into small pieces. You can also use boneless pork butt, but use a good pork stock instead of water in that case.
The charring of shallots and toasting of chilies adds a smoky depth that makes this soup distinctive. Do not skip it.
Add the toasted rice powder just before serving - it absorbs liquid and settles to the bottom quickly. You can also set it on the table for people to add themselves.
The pork can be braised in advance. Toast the rice a day ahead and store in an airtight container.