Kulfi

February 22, 2021

Prep 1 hr Total 9 hr 35 min

Kulfi is Indian ice cream. The milk is slowly cooked down to half its volume, so the sugar caramelises slightly and the milk sugars concentrate. The dense, almost fudge-like texture comes from the evaporated milk, not from churning — kulfi freezes still without being stirred, so no air is incorporated.

Almonds and cardamom are the classic version. Rose water gives it the characteristic floral note that sets kulfi apart from Western ice cream. Traditionally served in cone-shaped metal moulds and sliced, but any mould will do.

Kulfi is a common street food and festive dessert across India and Pakistan, sold from street carts and at celebrations. It works equally well as an after-dinner dessert at home.

Plan ahead: the reduction takes around 40 minutes, and the mixture must be completely chilled before freezing.

Ingredients

Makes 8 servings

250 g blanched almonds
1.75 l milk
250 g sugar
4–6 green cardamom pods, split (optional)
300 ml whipping cream
2 tbsp rose water

Directions

Reduce the milk

Put the almonds in a bowl, cover with cold water, and leave to soak.

Set 300 ml (1¼ cups) of the milk aside. Pour the rest into a large, preferably non-stick sauté pan and bring to the boil.

Reduce the heat and simmer until the milk has reduced to half its volume, about 40 minutes. Stir regularly so no skin forms and the base does not scorch.

Add almonds and sugar

Drain the almonds. Put a quarter of them in a blender or food processor with the reserved milk. Blitz for a few seconds until the almonds are coarsely ground — the mixture should be textured, not fine.

Stir the almond mixture, sugar, and cardamom (if using) into the hot reduced milk. Simmer for a further 10–20 minutes, stirring constantly, until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is smooth.

Remove from the heat. Leave to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until completely cold.

Freeze

Roughly chop the remaining almonds.

Stir the chopped almonds, whipping cream, and rose water into the cold milk mixture until evenly distributed.

Divide the mixture among moulds — cone-shaped metal moulds are the classic shape, but a loaf tin or small individual moulds also work. Cover and freeze overnight.

Serve

Move the kulfi from the freezer to the refrigerator 20 minutes before serving so it is sliceable. Unmould onto a plate or slice directly from the mould.

Notes

The cardamom can be left out for a cleaner almond flavour. The rose water can also be scaled back to 1 tbsp if you are cautious with floral aromatics — it is intense.

Kulfi is not stirred during freezing, unlike Western ice cream. The dense, slightly crystalline texture is intentional.

Garnish if you like with chopped pistachios, a little saffron, or a drizzle of rose water when serving.

Keeps in the freezer for at least a month in a well-sealed mould.