Sauce Choron

April 12, 2020

Sauce Choron - kvalifood.com

Sauce Choron (also called sauce bearnaise tomatee) is a classical French derivative sauce: bearnaise sauce finished with tomato puree or tomato concassee. It belongs to the hollandaise family of emulsified butter sauces. Named after Alexandre Etienne Choron, chef de cuisine at the famous Voisin restaurant in Paris in the late 19th century.

Ingredients

Reduction

60 ml white wine vinegar
60 ml dry white wine
2 shallots, finely chopped (~40 g)
5-6 black peppercorns, lightly crushed
2 sprigs fresh tarragon (stems and leaves)

Emulsion

3 large egg yolks
150 g unsalted butter, clarified (or melted whole butter), kept warm at 40-50C
1 tbsp warm water (optional, for sabayon stability)

Finish

2 tbsp tomato puree (or 2-3 tbsp fresh tomato concassee, well-drained)
Fine salt, to taste
1 pinch cayenne pepper (or white pepper)
1 tsp fresh tarragon, finely chopped (for garnish)

Directions

Make the reduction. Combine vinegar, white wine, shallots, peppercorns, and tarragon sprigs in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer and reduce until approximately 2 tablespoons of liquid remain. Strain through a fine sieve, pressing on the solids. Discard solids. Allow the reduction to cool to warm (not hot).
Clarify the butter (if using whole butter). Melt butter gently over low heat. Skim off foam. Pour the clear yellow fat into a warm container, leaving the milk solids behind. Keep at 40-50C.
Build the sabayon. Place egg yolks and the warm reduction in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water (the bowl should not touch the water). Add the optional tablespoon of warm water. Whisk continuously until the mixture is pale, thick, and holds a ribbon when the whisk is lifted (2-4 minutes). Target temperature: 45-55C. Do not overheat or the yolks will scramble.
Emulsify with butter. Remove the bowl from the heat. Begin adding the warm clarified butter very slowly – a few drops at a time initially, whisking constantly. Once the emulsion takes hold and thickens, increase to a thin steady stream. Continue until all butter is incorporated. The sauce should be thick, glossy, and pale yellow.
Add tomato. Gently fold in the tomato puree (or well-drained concassee) until evenly distributed. The sauce should turn a soft pink-orange.
Season and finish. Taste and adjust with salt and cayenne. Fold in the finely chopped fresh tarragon. Serve immediately.

Notes

Butter temperature matters. Too hot breaks the emulsion. Too cold and it won’t incorporate. 40-50C is the target – warm to the touch but comfortable.
Clarified butter produces a more stable, silky sauce. Whole melted butter works but the milk solids can make the emulsion slightly grainier.
Tomato puree vs. concassee: Puree integrates seamlessly and is the most classical choice. Concassee adds texture but must be very well drained (excess moisture can thin the sauce).
Tomato paste can be used in smaller quantity (~1 tbsp) if a more concentrated tomato flavor is desired, but it is less classical.
Rescue a broken sauce: If the emulsion breaks, place a fresh yolk in a clean bowl and slowly whisk the broken sauce into it.
Holding the sauce: Can be kept warm for 20-30 minutes in a bowl over warm (not simmering) water. Cover surface with plastic wrap. Do not reheat once cooled.
Serving: Classically served with grilled steak (especially tournedos or filet), grilled lamb, roasted beef, grilled fish, or vegetables like asparagus and artichokes.