Sous Vide Roe Deer Loin

February 8, 2012

Sous Vide Roe Deer Loin

Roe deer loin comes from the back of the smallest and leanest of the Danish deer species, the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus). The cut is tender on its own, but it has almost no fat or connective tissue to fall back on if it’s cooked too long - the meat then quickly turns gray, dry and stringy. Sous vide solves that problem by taking out the guesswork: the meat is held at a precise, low temperature until it’s warmed through without being cooked through.

The loin is seasoned with salt and pepper, gets a couple of sprigs of fresh thyme in the bag if you like, and then goes into the water bath at 129°F (54°C) for 1 hour. At that temperature the meat stays pink and juicy all the way through. Afterward the meat is patted thoroughly dry and seared quickly and hard in butter or ghee - just a minute on each side - for the browned crust and roasted flavor that the sous vide bath itself can’t provide.

The result is a cut that’s otherwise easy to underrate: tender, pink and with a clear, clean gamey flavor, without the tough or dry texture you otherwise risk with traditional cooking in a pan or oven.

Roe deer has long roots in Danish food tradition. The saddle is traditionally considered the finest cut on the animal, which makes this dish a good fit for a hunt dinner or a festive meal where the meat gets to be the centerpiece.

It’s best served with a short, reduced game sauce made from the bones, trimmings, red wine and stock, but the dish also works fine with a simple purée, sautéed root vegetables or wild mushrooms such as chanterelles alongside.

Ingredients

Serves 4

The Loin

500-600 g roe deer loin, trimmed of sinews and silverskin, in one piece or 4 portions
5-6 g fine salt
freshly ground pepper
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme, optional
40 g butter (or ghee), for searing
flaky salt, to serve

The Sauce

bones from the roe deer loin
trimmings from the roe deer loin
1 small onion, roughly chopped
1 carrot, roughly chopped
2 dl red wine
2 dl game stock (or veal stock)
20 g cold butter, diced

Directions

The Loin

Take the roe deer loin out of the fridge in good time so the meat comes to room temperature, and pat it thoroughly dry with paper towels. Rub the meat with salt and pepper, add the thyme sprigs if using, and vacuum-seal at maximum vacuum.

Cook the meat sous vide at 129°F (54°C) for 1 hour. For a more pronounced pink/red result, the temperature can be lowered to 126-127°F (52-53°C); if you prefer a more well-done texture, you can go up to 133°F (56°C) - but never higher, as the lean meat quickly turns dry and grainy when overcooked.

Take the bag out of the water bath, cut it open, and pat the meat thoroughly dry with paper towels - this is crucial for a good sear afterward. Heat the butter (or ghee) in a pan over high heat, and sear the meat hard for about 1 minute on each side, until it has a golden-brown crust. Avoid cooking it too long; the goal is only color and crust, not further cooking.

Let the meat rest for 3-5 minutes, then slice it into 6-8 mm thick slices across the grain.

The Sauce

While the meat is in the water bath, you can make the sauce. Brown the bones and trimmings together with the onion and carrot in a saucepan over good heat, until the vegetables have taken on color. Add the red wine and stock, and let the sauce reduce over low heat for 30-40 minutes.

Strain the sauce and mount it with the cold butter just before serving, until it’s glossy and lightly thickened.

Arrange the sliced roe deer loin on warmed plates, sprinkle with flaky salt, and serve at once with the sauce and a side of your choice, for example sautéed mushrooms, root vegetables or a fresh purée.

Notes

Roe deer is the leanest and smallest Danish deer, so the meat is especially vulnerable to overcooking. Always serve it pink - cooked through, it turns dry and loses its tender texture.

The water bath temperature is the most important variable: 126-129°F (52-54°C) gives a distinct pink/red center, while 131-133°F (55-56°C) gives a lighter, more “medium” result. Don’t go above 133-135°F (56-57°C) for portioned fillets.

The final sear should be short and hard. Too long at low-to-medium heat keeps cooking the already-tender meat from the sous vide bath.

If the roe deer loin is whole and bone-in, it needs a longer time and higher temperature than a portioned fillet, typically around 136-140°F (58-60°C) for 2-3 hours.

The sauce is optional but lifts the dish considerably - it can be left out, and the meat served instead with a simple purée or sautéed root vegetables.